Introduction
• 1650, 1770, 1850 북반구의 한파로 발효 중단 및 재발효 현상 발견 -> mosser (와인의 가스를 빼는 젓는 도구)
• 17세기 3대 발전 : Stronger glass bottle, uniform bottle neck opening, cork for air tight seal
• First champagne : 1695-1698 : Dom perignon
• First champagne hous : Ruinart (1729)
• First champagne class : 1755
• Louis Pasteur (1857) : Yeast action and significance
• Mono-parcelle : Philipponnat - Clos des Goisses
• Mono-cru : Salon - Cuvee 'S' Le Mesnil BdB (Le Mesnil sur Oger)
• Co-operative 가 많음 : Juice, still wine, sparkling wine (sur latte), private label 등을 팜
• Bordeaux는 가격을 조절함 / Champagne은 생산량을 조절함
Business & Market
• Value로 가장 큰 AOC
• 매년 50억 유로 (약 3억병)
• Type of Producer : NM, RM, RC, SR, CM, MA, ND
Viticultural History
• 4-5세기 : Rome에 의해 지배 -> viticulture 도입
• 5세기 Rome의 쇠퇴 -> Vandal, Teutons, Franks, Hun의 침입
• Clovis's Baptism by Bishop Remi at Reims
• 9세기 vins de la montagne, vin de la riviere라는 이름을 지음 (Red wine이 대부분)
• Middle age에는 상업의 중심도시, 연간 2번의 wine fair도 열었다
• 1600년대 말 : 거품 만드는 법을 터득함 (이전까지는 우연에 의함) - Stronger glass, Uniform bottle neck opening, Airtight cork seal
• 1728 : 병거래가 허용됨 (이전에는 cask 거래만)
• 1729 : 첫 샴페인하우스 (Ruinart)
• 17-18세기 : 샴페인 하우스 설립
• 1887 : Champagne 명칭 사용권을 얻어냄
• 1890 : Phylloxera -> 1/5 토막남
• 1908 : 1차 Champagne 생산구역 지정 (Aube 제외)
• 1927 : 2차 Champagne 생산구역 지정 (Aube 포함)
• 20세기 : Belle Epoque & Roaring twenties
• Champagne : Champagne / Methode Champenoise
• Non Champagne : Cremant, petillan, mousseux / Mothode traditionnelle
• cf) Louis 14세는 샴페인을 매일 즐겼다고 함
• cf) Troyes 는 역사적으로 Champagne의 심장, 한때 수도
Location & Climate
• 49.5'
• Continental + marked maritime influence
• Sun shine : 1680 hrs/yr
• Frost (60-80 days/yr), hail, fog, rain, humidity
Geography, Topography & Soils
• Lies in the Paris Basin
• Chalk (Belemnite & Micraster) : Cote des Blancs
• Limestone rich marl (Kimmeridgean Marl) : Cote des Bar, Montagne de Reims
• Sand & Clay : Vallee de la Marne, Val de Reims, Coteaux Sud d'Epernay
• cf) Crayeres : 석회 채석장 -> 까브로 사용
• cf) Belemnite : 화살모양 오징어 화석 -> mid slope에 위치하여 일조량과 배수가 좋음
• cf) Micraster : 평지 부근에 위치
Sub regions
• The Montagne and Val de Reims / Vallee de la Marne / Cote des Blancs / Cote des Bar
The Montagne and Val de Reims
• Massif de Saint-Thierry (M) - Sand, Clay, Marl
• Val de Reims (M) - Sand, Clay, Marl
• Grande Montagne de Reims (PN) - Limestone rich marl
• Montes de Berru (C) - Chalk
Vallee de la Marne
• Grande Vallee de la Marne (PN) - Sand, Clay, Marl + Pocket of Chalk
• Vallee de la Marne Rive Gauche (M) - Sand, Clay, Marl
• Rive Droite (M) - Sand, Clay, Marl
• Ouest (M) - Sand, Clay, Marl
• Conde (M) - Limestone
• Coteaux Sud d'Epernay (M,C) - Sand, Clay, Marl + Chalk
Cote des Blancs and Surroundings
• Cote des Blancs (C) - Chalk
• Cote de Sezanne (C) - Chalk
• Vitryat (C) - Chalk
• Montguex (C) - Chalk
• Val du Petit Morin (C,M) - Sand, Clay, Marl + Chalk
Cote des Bar
• Bar sur Aubois (PN) - Kimmeridgean marl
• Barsequanais (PN) - Kimmeridgean marl
The Echelle des Crus
• 1911년 설립
• Terroir의 차이를 찾으려는 노력
• Village에 1er & Grand cru를 부여하는 hierarchy
• Grand cru (17) : 100%
• Premiers cru (42) : 90-99%
• Village : 80-89% (전체의 80% 차지함)
• 과거에는 등급에 따른 포도 가격을 책정했음
• 2003년부터 사용되지 않음
Grape Varieties
9~16세기 : Gouais & Fromenteau
Pinot noir 38% / Meunier 32% / Chardonnay 30%
Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Arbane, Petit Meslier (<0.3%)
• 몇살이여(Meslier)? 알바냐(Arbane)? -> 둘다 Blanc
Chardonnay
• ↑alc /↑acid
• apple, citrus
• chalk
Pinot Gris
• historic Fromenteau
Pinot Noir
• ↓acid / - alc
• strawberry, cherry
• limestone rich marl
Meunier
• - acid /↓alc
• red fruit, earth, rye bread
• soften blend & make it approachable
• sand, clay, marl
Viticulture
Training
• Chablis / Cordon / Guyot / Vallee de la Marne
• Grand & 1er cru는 Chablis나 Cordon으로만
• Vallee de la Marne은 예외적으로 Meunier에 사용
Global warming
• Flowering & Harvest 를 10-14일 앞당김
• High risk of frost
• Coteaux Champenois의 red의 ripeness는 좋아짐
• Champenois가 organic과 biodynamic을 할 수 있게 함 : Louis Roederer, Fleury, Larmandier-Bernier
• Less chaptalization
• Lower acid -> lower dosage level
Wine making
• Non Vintage : multi vintage / 12m sur lie / 15m from tirage to release
• Vintage : 12m sur lie / 3y from tirage to release
• Grand cru : 17 village (6 Cote de Blanc / 9 Montage de Reims / 2 Vallee de la Marne)
• Primier cru : 42 village +- grape from GC
• Blanc de Blancs : Lace like finesse
• Blanc de Noirs : tannin, overt, expressive, powerful & fuity
• Rose : Base wine - 8-20% red wine blend or rose de saignee
• Prestige Cuvee : Champagne house highest bottling
• Late Disgorgement : Extended sur lie
• Single Vinyard : Philiponnat's Clos de Goisses
• Single cru : Salon's Cuvee "S" Le Mesnil BdB
• Special club : Club Tresor de Champagne / 2 blind tasting / Signature bottle
• Soldera or perpetual reserve : Single stainless steel tank or oak foudre
Appellation
Rose des Riceys AOC
• Still Rose from Pinot Noir
• in Les Ricey in Aube
Coteaux Champenois AOC
• Still Dry W, Rs, R (대부분 White)
• Most is NV & White
Champagne AOC
• Sparkling W & Rs
• hand harvest 필수
Key term
• Assemblage
• Tirage : bottling
• Liquere de tirage
• Elevage : wine이 crown cap이나 cork & staple로 닫히는 것
• Remuage : Riddling
• Cheville : Peg shaped
• Dosage
• Crayeres
• Sur lattes
• Sur lie
• Vin clair : base wine
• Cuvee : purest part of pressed juice and a blend
• Prise de mousse
• Pupitres : A shape rack
• Liquer de dosage
• Jupone : Skirt shaped, mushroom shaped, 어린 샴페인 코르크
• Degorgement a la volee : 손으로 하는 disgorgement
• Tete de Cuvee : prestigous cuvee
• Transversage : 750ml 병에서 다른 규격 병으로 옮겨담는것
Key people to Know
• Clovis : King of Frank / Baptism in Reims
• Dom perignon
• Nicole Ponsardin : Veuve Cliquot
• Madame Pommery : Start of dry champagne (end of Russian Tsar)
