Introduction
• 중세시대 Monk에 의해 vineyard 구분작업이 시작됨
• Chablis와 Maconnais는 지질학적으로 45M years가 차이남
• 지질학적 역사가 escarpment, coombs (shallow valley in limestone escarpment), colluvium, fault line, bioherms (reef like mound of earth composed of dead sea creature)에 담겨있음
• 44 Village / 662 Premiers Cru / 33 Grands Crus
• France에서 가장 많은 AOC를 갖고있음
Business & Market
• White 60% / Red & Rose 29% / Cremant 11%
• 16 co-op / 266 negociant / 3577 estate : 15.5m cases (50% export)
• 52% sold through negociant
• 4.5% of French wine production... but 21% French wine revenue from still wine
• 8.6% = organic or in conversion
• Avg individual vineyard holding : 16.1ac/6.51ha
Viticultural History
• ~52 BCE : Before Roman conquest, Celtic tribe가 살았음, Celtic과 Roman Empire의 무역 중심지
• 5세기 : Rome의 힘이 약해지면서 주변 부족들의 침략이 시작됨
• 450 CE : Germanic Burgondes tribe에 의해 Burgundia 설립
• Clovis에 의해 Frankish Kingdom으로 통합됨
• Dark age의 권력공백기에 Church와 Monk가 vineyard 장악
• 1363~1477 : Duke of Burgundy가 집권, Saone River 서쪽, 북쪽으로 벨기에 위치까지 영토확장
Dukes of Burgundy
• Philippe the Bold (1363-1404) : Gamay 금지함
• John the Fearless (1404-1419) : 미래 King of France의 Guardian으로 임명되었으나 권력욕으로 암살당함
• Philippe the Good (1419-1467) : Joan of Arc를 체포하여 영국에 항복시킴, Hospices de Beaune (Charity hospital)
• Charles the Rash (1467-1477) : Alsace & Lorraine을 정복하려다가 사망
• 17세기 : Bourgogne wine은 다른지역 와인보다 10배정도 비쌌다 -> 귀족들이 Loire에 Chateaux를 만들고 여름을 보내면서 Loire에게 관심이 뺏기기 시작함
• French revolution에 Domaine들이 몰락함
• 1800년대 Phylloxera로 포도원과 인구가 감소함
• 1847년 King Louis Philipper가 Village에 가장 유명한 밭 이름을 붙일 수 있게 지정함 (Gevrey -> Gevrey Chambertin)
• 1859년 Hospices de Beaune에서 첫 경매가 이뤄짐
• 1861년 Agricultural Committee of Beaune에서 vineyard classification
• 1930년 Bourgogne의 경계가 법적으로 지정됨
• 1986년 60%가 Red 품종
• 2019년 60%가 White 품종 - Chablis와 Maconnais가 확장함
Location & Climate
• Continental with Oceanic influence (North) & Mediterranean influence (South)
• Vine threats : Spring frost & Summer hailstorm
Geography, Topography & Soils
• Bourgogne lies on the edge fo the Paris Basin
• Limestone and marls atop a granite base
• Maconnais : Oldest marine deposit / Chablis : Youngest
• Saone Graben의 Western sector
• Grand cru : Mid-slope
Grape Varieties
• ChD 51% / PN 39.5% / Aligote 6% / Gamay 2.5%
Chardonnay
• Primary white grape
• Except for : Saint-Bris, Bouzeron, Bourgogne Aligote
Aligote
• 2nd most important white grape
• Bouzeron, Bourgogne Aligote
Sauvignon Blanc
• Saint-Bris
Pinot Blanc
• blending (regional, village, some GCs)
Sacy
• Cremant de Bourgogne
Melon de Bourgogne
• Coteaux Bourguignon & Cremant de Bourgogne
Pinot Gris
• =Pinot Beurot
• White & Red에 일부 포함될 수 있으나 드물다
• Marsannay & Bourgogne Rose에 Primary variety이므로 100% Pinot Gris Rose가 가능하지만 일반적이지는 않음
Sauvignon Gris
• Saint-Bris에서 2nd Variety
Pinot Noir
• Bourgogne Red & Rose
Gamay
• Regional Bourgogne appellation : Bourgogne나 Beaujolais cru에서 공수가능
• Macon에서는 Red & Rose에 Pinot Noir & Gamay 모두 사용가능
• Macon DGC에서는 Gamay만 사용가능 (PN 불가)
Cesar
• Regional wine from Yonne departement
• Irancy AOC
Viticulture
• Biodynamic : DRC, Domaine Leflaive
• Machine harvest : Chablis, Maconnais
• Hand picking : Cote d'Or, Cote Chalonnaise
• Bud break가 빨라지면서 hailstorm과 frost의 피해가 크다
• Guyot가 기본, Cordon도 있음
Wine making
• Fermentation : Steel or 228L barrel
• Maturation (Chablis, Macon) : Steel, concrete, neutral oak vats
• Maturation (Cote d'Or, Chalonnaise) : Oak (20-50% new)
• Premox : Multiple cause - Certain clone, fully ripe fruit, less use of sulfur, less batonnage
• Global Warming : Whole cluster in PN
Appellation
<Regional>
Bourgogne 39% / Macon 28% / Cremant de Bourgogne 19%
Bourgogne AOC
• 주로 100% ChD or 100% PN
• White : Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris도 포함 가능
• Red : Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris도 포함 가능, Gamay from Beaujolais cru 포함가능 / Yonne departement에서는 Cesar 포함 가능
• Rose : 주로 PN
• Gamay 85%넘을 시 Gamay 표기!!
• Bourgogne AOC DGCs : Chitry, Cote Chalonnais, Cote d'auxerre, Cote d'Or, Cotes du Couchois, Cote Saint Jacques, Coulanges la Vineuse, Pineuil, Hautes Cotes de Beaune, Hautes Cotes de Nuits, La Chapelle Notre-Dame, Montrecul, Tonnerre
Coteaux Bourguinons AOC
• 과거 Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
• White : 뭐든지!!
• Red : Pinot, Gamay, Yonne's Cesar
• Rose (Clairet) : Same as red + Pinot Gris, (Sacy, Tressot)
Macon AOC
• W & R & Rs
• White : 100% C
• Red : PN & Gamay (DGC는 Gamay만)
• Macon Village는 White (C) 만
Cremant de Bourgogne AOC
• Sparkling White & Rose
• ChD, PB, PG, PN
• Eminent : 24m sur lie
• Grand Eminent : 36m sur lie / <15g/L dosage / ChD, PN only / Rose는 Gamay 20% 가능 / 처음 75% pressed juice만 사용
Bourgogne Mousseux AOC
• Sparkling Red
• Traditional method
• Gamay, PN, Yonne's Cesar
• 3.5atm
Bourgogne Aligote AOC
• 100% Aligote
Bourgogne Pass-Tout-Grains AOC
• Red & Rose
• 최소 PN 30% & 최소 Gamay 15%
• 다른 품종은 field blend로 사용 가능
<Village wine>
• Reflect a blend of vineyard and blend of terroir
<Premier Cru>
• Single vineyard나 climat
• 2020년 Pouilly Fuisse의 추가로 640 -> 662
• 전체 생산량의 10%
• Village level의 일부, 독립 AOC가 아님
<Grand Cru>
• 전체 생산량의 1%
• 33개의 Grand cru
• Chablis를 제외하고 Village 이름을 적지 않아도 됨
Sub Regions of Bourgogne
<Chablis Appellation>
• 100% Chardonnay
• Grand cru, Premier cru, Chablis -> Kimmeridgean soil
• Petit Chablis -> Portlandian soil
Chablis Grand Cru AOC
• 7 Climats : S-W facing slope
• Kimmeridgean marl
• Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur, Vaudesir
• cf) La Moutonne : Unofficial Grand Cru Clima, monopole of Domaine Long-Depaquit (95% in Vaudesir & 5% in Preuses)
Chablis AOC
• Slope & Plain / Serein 강 일대에 퍼져있음
• 1980년대에 영역 확장
• Kimmeridgean soil
• Chablis 1er Cru : 40개 (17 umbrella), slope에 위치, Kimmeridgean soil
Petit Chablis AOC
• Sited away from principal slope
• Portlandian Soil
<Grand Auxerrois Appellation>
Saint-Bris AOC
• Dry White only
• Sauvignon Blanc (Gris)
• Kimmeridgean & Portlandian marl
Irancy AOC
• Red only
• Pinot Noir (Pinot Gris, Cesar)
• Kimmeridgean marls
Vezelay AOC
• Chardonnay 100%
• Clay & Limestone
cf) Chatillonnais 에서는 regional만 만듦 : Cremant de Bourgogne 위주
<Cote de Nuits>
• Continetal climate : seasonal & diurnal temperature variation
• Sedimentary limestone & limestone rich marls
• Red가 주를 이룸
• White 생산하는 village : Marsannay, Fixin, MSD, Vougeot, NSG
• Rose 생산하는 village : Marsannay
Marsannay AOC
• Red & White & Rose
• Rose : PN or PG
Fixin AOC
• 대부분 Red
• 서쪽의 숲 때문에 Hail로 부터 보호받음
Gevrey-Chambertin AOC
• Red only
• Largest village appellation in Cote d'Or
• GCs : 9개 (Chambertin, C-Clos de Beze, Chapelle-C, Charmes-C, Mazoyeres-C, Griotte-C, Latricieres-C, Mazis-C, Ruchottes-C)
Morey-Saint-Denis AOC
• Red & White
• GCs : 5개 (Bonne Mares - ChM과 공유, Clos de la Roche, Clos de Tart, Clos de Lambrays, Clos Saint-Denis)
Chambolle Musigny AOC
• Red only
• Cote de Nuits 에서 가장 섬세한 와인 "Silk and Lace"
• GCs : 2개 (Bonne Mares - MSD와 공유, Musigny)
• Musigny는 유일하게 White & Red를 만드는 GC 2개 중 1 (Corton)
Vougeot AOC
• 대부분 Red
• Smallest commune but Largest GC
• GCs : 1개 (Clos de Vougeot)
Vosne-Romanee AOC
• Red only
• "the Pearl of the Cote" & "Iron fist in a velvet glove"
• GCs : 8개 (La Romanee*, Romanee Conti*, Romanee Saint Vivant, Richebourg, La Tache*, Echezeaux, Grand Echezeaux, La Grande Rue*) (* 4개는 Monopoles)
Nuits-Saint-Georges AOC
• Red & White
• Center for wine shipper, broker, negociant, cooperage, cremant producer
• Saint-Georges : GC worthy
Cote de Nuits-Villages AOC
• 대부분 Red
• 5 village : Fixin, Brochon (North) / Premeaux, Comblanchien, Corgoloin (South)
<Cote de Beaune>
• Ladoix ~ Marange
• Limestone & limestone rich marls
• 2/3 Red & 1/3 White
Ladoix AOC
• White & Red
• Hill of Corton
• GCs : 2개 (Corton, Corton-Charlemagne)
Aloxe-Corton AOC
• White & Red
• Hill of Corton
• GCs : 3개 (Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Charlemagne)
Pernand-Vergelesses AOC
• White & Red
• Hill of Corton (S-W slope)
• GCs : 3개 (Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Charlemagne)
Chorey-les-Beaune AOC
• White & Red
• Beaune 북쪽의 평야
• No 1er Cru
• 50%는 Cote de Beaune-Village로 출시
Savigny-les-Beaune AOC
• 대부분 Red
• Mont Battois & Bois de Noel
Beaune AOC
• White & Red
• Largest commercial center
• Hospices de Beaune
• Major negociants : Latour, Drouhin, Bouchard
Cote de Beaune AOC
• White & Red 반반
• Higher altitude
Pommard AOC
• Red only
• Clay & Active limestone : Nuits 와 비슷해 파워풀함
Volnay AOC
• Red only
• Supple, soft mouthfeel
Monthelie AOC
• 대부분 Red
• Volnay, Meursault, Saint-Romain에 둘러쌓여있음
Saint-Romain AOC
• White & Red
• Cote de Beaune에서 가장 작은 village
• Main Cote에서 떨어져있음
• 고도가 높고 남향이 없음 -> 산도가 높음 (Chablis 연상)
Auxey-Duresses AOC
• Red & White (2/3 Red)
• Main Cote에서 떨어져있음
Saint-Aubin AOC
• White & Red (80% White)
• Montrachet hill에 놓여있음 -> 가격상승중
Meursault AOC
• 대부분 White
• "If Gold were a flavor, it would taste like Meursault"
Puligny-Montrachet AOC
• White & Red
• GCs : 4개 (Montrachet*, Batard-Montrachet*, Chevalier-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bartard-Montrachet) * Chassagne와 공유
Chassagne-Montrachet AOC
• White & Red (Red는 NSG와 비교된다)
• GCs : 3개 (Montrachet*, Batard-Montrachet*, Criots-Batard-Montrachet) *Puligny와 공유
Blagny AOC
• Red only
• Meursault & Puligny 사이에 놓여있음
• White는 Meursault-Blangny, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet 중 생산 위치에 따라 표기함
Santenay AOC
• 대부분 Red
• Fertile soil -> Red wine
Maranges AOC
• 대부분 Red
• 최남단의 AOC
• white는 pinot blanc 허용 안함
Cote de Beaune-Village AOC
• Red only
• All village는 CdB-Village로 표기가능 (예외 : Beaune, Aloxe-Corton, Pommard, Volnay)
<Cote Chalonnaise>
• 불연속적인 경사면 -> 다양한 포도밭 방향
• Continental climate : shelter가 적어서 서늘함
• Limestone rich marls -> Givry -> Older, sandier marl
• Red 60%, white, sparkling
Bouzeron AOC
• Aligote 100%
• cool exposure & shallow soil
Rully AOC
• Red (1/3) & White (2/3)
• Cremant을 still와인보다 두배 더 만든다
Mercurey AOC
• White & Red
• Cote Chalonnaise에서 가장 큰 마을
Givry AOC
• 대부분 Red
Montagny AOC
• White only
• Cave des Vignerons de Buxy에서 65% 생산함
<Maconnais>
• 가장 큰 sub region
• Continental influenced by Mediterranean
• 해가 풍부함 -> 완숙미
• Limestone and marl : 오래된 퇴적 토양
• Granite and Schist : 남쪽에 위치, 보졸레 토양
• 90% Chardonnay
Pouilly-Fuisse AOC
• 100% Chardonnay
• Cote d'Or와 비슷함, oak 사용
• 22개의 1er cru
Pouilly-Loche AOC
Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC
Saint-Veran AOC
• 100% Chardonnay
Vire-Clesse AOC
• 100% Chardoonay
• Late harvest로 semi sweet wine을 만든다
Check Points
Red or White 한종류만 허용된 Village
• Red : G-C, C-M, Vosne-Romanee, Pommard, Vonaly, Blagny, Cote de Beaune Village, Irancy, Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains (R&Rs)
• White : Bourgogne Aligote, Macon Village, Chablis, Saint Brie, Vezelay, Bourzeron, Montagny, Pouilly family, Vire Clesse, Saint-Veran
Rully - Cremant 주력
Vire-Clesse - late harvest sweet wine도 만든다
공유 GC
• Bonne Mares : C-M & MSD
• Corton : Ladoix, Alox Corton, P-V
• Corton-Charlmagne : L, AC, PV
• Charlmagne : AC, PV
• Montrachet, Batard Montrachet : PM & ChM
