Introduction
• 1152 Duchess of Aquitaine, Eleanor X Duke of Normandy Henry Plantagenet -> Economic ties between England and French
• Middle age : 다른지역들이 종교적 이유로 와인을 만들었던거에 비해 보르도는 상업적인 이유로 만들었다
• French Revolution : 보르도의 영지는 유지되었다
• Napoleon's Code of Inheritance에도 보르도의 상업적 재능으로 피해갈 수 있었음
• WWI에서는 프랑스 수도 역할도 함
• Joseph Capus가 AOC legislation초안을 작성함
• CIVB에서 지속가능한 농업을 위해 노력
• 기후변화에 대응하기 위해 새로운 포도 품종을 승인해달라고 INAO에 요청
• 2nd & 3rd label에 대한 수요 증가
• 등급이 없는 생산자 (Petit Chateaux)에 대한 관심증가
Business & Market
• France's largest AOC vineyard area : 5060 estates, 300 merchants, 72 broker, 29 co-op, 3 co-op union
• Co-op bottle 23% of Bordeaux's harvest
• Total production : 553 million bottles
• 70% of Bordeaux's production is sold through a network of 300 merchant
• 56% of Bordeaux is consumed in France
Viticultural History
• Roman에 의해 포도재배 정착
• Roman Empire의 몰락 이후 주변 부족들의 침략
• Eleanor x Henry : Commercial tie to England -> 1st Golden Age
• Castillon battle (1453) : France가 Bordeaux를 되찾음
• 이후 Dutch의 개입 : white wine을 eau de vie로 증류하길 바랬으며, sweet white wine을 원했다
• 1600s : Dutch에 의해 Medoc peninsula가 매꿔짐
• 1700s : Dutch 와 British에 의해 2nd Golden age -> luxurious chateaux 등장
• Bordeaux estate는 private hold여서 French revolution에서 안전함
• 1800s : Phylloxera & mildew
• 1956 : Deep freeze - Malbec -> Merlot
• Emile Peynaud : Oenology at Bordeaux Univ. / Made second label to boost Grand vin quality
• Robert Parker - Wine Advocate : 3rd Golden age
• En Primeur : future sale -> 점점 더 생산자들이 스스로 보관하고 있음
Location & Climate
• Maritime, moderated by Les Landes, Gulf Stream, Girone Estuary & Network of river
• Les Landes : 인공 숲, 침식되는 모래 사구로 부터 보르도 포도원을 보호함
• Areas near the Atlantic Ocean and the Gironde : temperate
• Areas inland to the south and east : more continental influence
• Rain falls all year round : possible rain at harvest, rot
Geography, Topography & Soils
• Soils : primarily sedimentary : gravel with sand & clay + limestone
• Mostly flat : elevation peaks at 115m
• Warm soils - gravel and sands : left bank of Gironde & Garonne, part of Entre-duex-Mers - CS & PV
• Cool soils - clay & limestone : right bank of Gironde & Dordogne, hillsides of Entre-duex-Mers - M & CF & Cot
• River : Dordogne, Garonne, Isle, Ciron
Grape Varieties
• Carmenere : 1800s Phylloxera 이후 사라짐
• Malbec : 1956 winter freeze 이후 사라짐
• CS, M, CF / SB, Sm, Muscadelle
• 지구 온난화로 PV가 점점 더 잘익는다 / M은 알콜이 너무 높아져 줄여나가야 할 것 같다
• M 59%, CS 20%, CF 8%, Sm 5%, SB 5%
• 2021 Authorized for Bordeaux & Bordeaux superieur AOC : Red - Ariarnoa, Castets, Marselan, Touriga Nacional / White - Alvarinho, Liliorila
• Semillon : 보트리티스 취약, 스위트와인은 barrique에서 숙성
• Sauvignon Blanc : Bordeaux dry white, 점점 더 블랜딩 비율이 높아짐
• Muscadelle : sweet wine blending에 사용
• Other : Colombard, Merlot Blanc, Mauzac Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Alvarinho, Liliorila
• Sauvignon Gris : mutation fo SB, add depth and texture
• Merlot : Flesh to CS, 지구온난화로 쉽지않음...
• Cabernet Sauvignon : Backbone of Left bank
• Cabernet Franc : Saint Emilion에서 주요한 역할
• Cot (Malbec) : Bourg, Blaye, Entre-deux-Mers
• Petit Verdot : Add tannin, pigment, spice
• Carmenere : Rare
• Other : Arinanoa, Castets, Marselan, Touriga Nacional
Viticulture
• Taille medocaine (팔이 짧은 double Guyot) & Guyot (single & double)
• High density for less fertile soil
• irrigation은 illegal
• 과거에는 배수로 설치 but 현재는 root stock을 개발함
• Bud break 가 빨라짐 -> 4월 서리로 어린잎이 피해를 봄
Wine making
Dry white wine
• Style 1 : 신선하고 밝은 와인, 스텐에서 발효 숙성, no MLC
• Style 2 : 배럴 발효 및 숙성, 리숙성 -> 크리미하고 풍부한 질감
Sweet white wine
• Sm + SB + (Muscadelle)
• Moelleux : hand picked, 12-45g/L
• Liquoreux : hand picked, berry by berry, multiple harvest (tris), >45g/L, barrel aging
• All from noble rot
Red wine
• cap management : pigeage, remontage
Rose & Clairet
• Clairet : 24-36hr maceration (saignee)
Appellation
** Bordeaux & Bordeaux Superieur**
• 50% of Bordeaux production
Bordeaux AOC
• Dry white, semi-sweet, rose, clairet, red
• White : SB +- Sm
• Red : M based
• Haut Benauge : DGC, dry & semi-sweet white, Sm+SB
• cf) Entre-deux-Mers Haut Benauge는 only dry white
Bordeaux Superieur AOC
• Red & Semi sweet white
• Higher alc, lower yield, longer aging
• Sweet white : moelleux
• no dry white : alvarinho는 금지
Cremant de Bordeaux AOC
• White : 70% of Bordeaux primary grape
• Rose : only with Red grape
The Medoc
• Gravel
• CS & M dominant
• Red only
** Medoc & Haut-Medoc**
Medoc AOC
• Clay & limestone > gravel
Haut-Medoc AOC
• Medoc 반도의 남쪽 2/3담당
• gravel
**4 Major communes**
Saint-Emilion AOC
• Merlot 비율이 높음 : soft
Pauillac AOC
• Gravelly soil - good drain
• CS dominant : ripe fully, powerful, structured, ageable, dusty cocoa
• Classified growths가 가장 많음 (17개)
Saint-Julien AOC
• CS dominant : Chocolate & cherry
• most Californian
Margaux AOC
• Gravel 사이즈가 다양함
• 완숙이 빠르고 물 보유량이 적음
• Delicate, perfumed, elegant
**Minor Communes**
Listrac Medoc AOC
• Clay, sand, limestone
• Merlot dominant
• Heavier, denser, but less fragrance
Moulis en Medoc (Moulis) AOC
• Merlot based full body wine
Graves
• Gravel 토양 -> Ceron에서 clay, marl, limestone으로 바뀜
• 서쪽으로는 Les Landes forest
• 보르도에서 심어진 first vineyard
Graves AOC
• Red : CS based (85%)
• White : SB & Sm based
Graves Superieures AOC
• Semi sweet white
• SB & Sm
• Noble rot or Passerillage
Pessac-Leognan AOC
• Red & White
• Red : CS based, hint of clove
• White : SB + Sm, often with oak
The Sauternais
• Morning damp by Ciron river
• Sweet white only (Red wine은 Bordeaux (Superieur)로 출시)
• Sm + SB + Muscadelle
• 45g/L
Sauternes AOC
• 2/3 Semillon, 1/3 Sauvignon Blanc
• Dry white : Cheateau 이름의 첫글자 사용
Barsac AOC
• Ciron 강의 left bank
• Clay & limestone plateau -> lemony freshness
• Sauternes 으로 출시가능 : 생산구역이 겹침
Cerons AOC
• Sand & Gravel이 많음 (Sauternes & Barsac에 비해) -> 최대 Yield가 더 높음
• Dry Red & White : Graves AOC
• Semi sweet white : Gravese Superieures AOC
Entre-duex-Mers
• Soil : alluvial deposit, some slopes are pure gravel
• Dry & Sweet white : 주로 SB
• Red blend -> Bordeaux AOC
Entre-duex-Mers
• 25% of Bordeaux white (Bordeaux AOC 는 60%)
• DGCs : EdM Haut-Benauge - only dry white
**Three sweet wine AOCs**
• Sm + SB + Muscadelle
• Sweet white
Cadillac AOC
• Min sweetness : 51g/L
Loupiac AOC
• Min sweetness : 45g/L
Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC
• Min sweetness : 45g/L
• Gravel이 많아 풍미 농축도가 더 높다고 평가
**Other sweet wine making AOC in EdM**
Graves de Vayres AOC
• Pebble이 많음 (Isle강에서 퇴적됨)
• Red가 대부분 (Dry white, Semi sweet white 도 가능)
Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux AOC : Sm+SB semi sweet
Cote de Bordeaux Saint Macaire AOC : Dry ~ sweet white
The Libournais
• M, CF, CS, Cot + PV, Cm
• Pomerol을 제외하고 6가지 품종사용이 허용됨 (Pomerol은 Cm 제외)
Fronsac AOC & Canon Fronsac AOC
• Clay & limestone -> M & CF
Pomerol AOC
• M, CF, CS, PV, Cot
• M & CF -> rich texture, heady aroma & soft, velvety, round, generous
Lalande de Pomerol AOC
• less aromatic, less structured, bright berry
** Saint-Emilion area **
Saint-Emilion AOC & Saint-Emilion Grand cru AOC
• GC : lower yield, higher alc, bottle at the Chateau, undergo 2 tasting, >1yr aging
• GC production > Saint-Emilion AOC (x3)
• Soil : limestone & clay + 2 pocket of Pomerol soil (Figeac & Cheval blanc)
• Lime stone - H acid, polished tannin / Sand - Fruit forward / Pomerol pocket - velvet tannin & walnut and prune
4 Satellites
Lussac Saint-Emilion AOC / Montagne Saint-Emilion AOC / Puisseguin Saint-Emilion AOC / Saint-Georges Saint-Emilion AOC
The Cotes
• Most are in right bank and S-W facing
• Clay & Limestone
• Red : M & CF
• Cote de Bordeaux (R), Blaye(W,R), Francs(All), Castillon(R), Sainte-Foy(A), Cadillac(R)
Cotes de Bordeaux AOC
• Red only from 5 DGCs
Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux DGC
• W & R (40%)
• Sm + SB / M based red (M + CS + CF > 50%)
Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux DGC
• Red only
• M dominant + CS (pocket of gravel)
Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux DGC
• Red only
• Clay -> Merlot 7-80%
Francs Cotes de Bordeaux DGC
• W & R & Sw
• White & Sweet는 매우 소량만 생산
• Limestone이 많아 Merlot based에 CF 첨가
** Blaye & Bourg **
Blaye AOC
• Red only
• Merlot based + CS & CF > 50%
Cotes de Blaye AOC
• Dry white only
• Colombard & Ugni Blanc
Bourg / Cotes de Bourg / Bourgeais AOC
• W & R
• R : Merlot 65%
• W : SB 40% + Colombard & Sm
The Bordeaux Classification System
Medoc and Sauternes Classification
1855 Classification
• Napoleon III에 의해 National Exhibition 대비용
• 가격에 따라 Tier를 매김
• 와인이 아닌 Chateaux에 등급부여
• Medoc : 61 / Sauternes & Barsac : 27
Medoc 1855 Classification : 61 Chateaux
• Premier cru : 5 (1 : Pessac Leognan)
• Deuxiemes cru : 14
• Troisiemes cru : 14
• Quatriemes cru : 10
• Cinquiemes cru : 18
Sauternes and Barsac 1855 Classification : 27 Chateaux
• Premier cru Superieur : 1
• Premier cru : 11
• Deuxiemes cru : 15
Cru Bourgeois
• 249 Estate
• Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels / Cru Bourgeois Superieurs / Crus Bourgeois
Cru Artisan
• 36 Estate
• Boutique winery
Grave Classification
• 22 wines or 16 estate
• all in Pessac Leognan
Cru Classes de Graves (1953)
• Red & White : 6 estates
• White only : 3 estates
• Red only : 7 estates
Saint-Emilon Classification
• 1955지정 -> 10년마다 개정
• Saint-Emilion Grand Cru : AOC
• Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe : Classification Rank
• 2 Premiers Grands Crus Classes A : Figeac, Pavie
• 12 Premiers Grands Crus Classes B
• 71 Grands Crus Classes
