Wines & Bones : 와인너드의 정형외과 안내서

[French Wine Scholar] 1. 북부 - (7) Loire Valley 본문

Wine & More/French Wine Scholar (FWS)

[French Wine Scholar] 1. 북부 - (7) Loire Valley

소비치 2023. 12. 4. 14:37
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Introduction
• Chateaux & Garden
• Reasonable land price : well heeled investor & earnest individual
• Organic & Biodynamic
• Global warming : Melon이 완숙도가 높아짐
• Warm & Dry autumn -> Layon의 sweet wine, Dry Chenin Blanc의 품질이 좋아짐
• Sparkling wine의 인기가 증가함 (Fines Bulles = petillant, mousseux, cremant)
• Upper Loire : Volcanic Loire로 마케팅하고 있음 (2개의 AOC는 sedimentary soil에 위치 : Saint Pourcain & Cotes d'Auvergne)
• Vouvray 는 2013년 부터 Vouvray내에서 양조 필수 : Top two producer - Francois Chidaine & Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups는 Montlouis-sur-Loire에서 양조하여 VdF로 출시


Business & Market
• France largest white wine producing region
• France second largest sparkling wine producer
• France third largest overall producer of AOC wines
• Production : 44% white, 25% rose, 18% red, 13% sparkling
• Appellation production : 83.5% AOC, 9% IGP, 7.5% VdF


Viticultural History
• 1CE Roman
• Middle age : Latin (South), Celtic/Germanic (North) influence
• 1152 : Eleanor x Henry Plantagenet
• 1429 : Joan of Arc traveled to Chinon to persuade Charles VII
• 15-17세기 귀족들의 선호로 great castle들이 생겨남
• 1577 : 파리 외곽 20 league밖에서 와인을 구매하도록 법을 지정함 -> Orlean, Blois, eastern Touraine 이 성장함
• 1600s : Netherland에도 와인 수출 -> Folle Blanche 등 품종 증가, Brandewijn (Burnt wine : 증류주) 등 발명
• 철도발달 : S. France와 직접적인 경쟁관계
• Gabarre : 상류에서 하류로 운송, 하류에서 분해되어 건축자제로 사용


Location & Climate
• Pay Natais : Maritime
• Anjou, Saumur, Touraine : Maritime + continental influence
• Centre Loire & Upper Loire : Continental
• Loire river : longest in France (620mi/1000km)


Geography, Topography & Soils

Pay Nantais & Anjou-Saumur -> Massif Amoricain
• Soils : Gneiss and mica schist transitioning to tuffeau

Touraine & Centre-Loire -> Paris Basin
• Touraine Soils : tuffeau, clay, limestone, sands, gravel, flinty-clay
• Centre-Loire soils : Portlandian (caillottes) and Kimmeridgean marl (terres blanche), flint (silex), clay with flint (argiles a silex), and sand and gravel

Upper Loir -> Massif Central
• Soils : Mix of sedimentary and volcanic element

Grape Varieties
• CF 25%, SB 16%, ChB 15%, Melon 14%, Gamay 7%

Viticulture
• Northern limit of viable viticulture -> long hang time
• ~1980s : canopy manage, short pruning, de budding, green harvesting
• First harvest : Melon in Pay Nantais
• Last harvest : CF & late harvest ChB
• Hand harvest is required in certain appellation : ex) Cremant de Loire, Botrytis wine -> Staged Harvest : Tris


Wine making
White wine
• Preserve natural acidity & freshness
• Reductive technique : 빠른 수확, 온도조절탱크 발효 or large oak vats
• Mostly NO MLC
• Chaptalization is possible
• Many are Lees aged

Dessert wine
• Chenin Blanc (Principal), Malvoisie (Pinot Gris), Romorantin
• very little new oak or no oak
• Simple sweet : bottle quickly after fermentation

Rose
• Direct press & Saignee
• Off dry rose : Stoping fermentation by chilling

Red
• Destemmed, macerated for 1-4wks
• MLC to reduce acidity & supple mouthfeel
• Chaptalization is prohibited in certain AOC
• Some Gamay -> semi-carbonic maceration

Sparkling
• Mainly 'Methode traditionnelle'

Dry/Sec : <4g/L
Medium Dry / Demi-sec : 4-12g/L
Medium sweet / Moelleux : 12-45g/L
Sweet / Doux : >45g/L

Appellation
Cabernet d'Anjou 15% / Touraine 10% / Muscadet Sevre et Maine 9% / Cremant de Loire 7%

<Pay Nantais (Lower Loire)>

• Maritime climate : humid -> rot & mildew
• First bud break & First harvest in Loire
• Massif Armoricain

Grape Varieties
• Melon de Bourgogne (m/c) : 75% of Pay Nantais
• Other white : Chardonnay, Folle Blanche, Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Montils, Sauvignon Blanc


• Pinot Gris : sweet wine in Coteaux d'Ancenis

• Gamay : 5% of Pays Nantais' planting, 1' in Coteaux d'Ancenis

Pay Nantais Appellations

Muscadet AOC
• 3개의 AOC 구역을 모두 포함함 : Cotes de Grandlieu, Sevre et Maine, Coteaux de la Loire
• Melon + (ChD <10%)
• 20% of all Muscadet
• Sur lie (X)

"Sur lie" in label : 3.1~12.31 사이에 병입해야함, 최소 Sur lie 기간이 더 긴 Savre et Maine 의 경우 label에 표기 할 수 없음

Muscadet Savre det Maine AOC
• 75% of Muscadet
• 7 DGCs - low yield, high alc
• longer sur lie than Muscadet AOC but.. No "Sur Lie" on label
• Muscadet AOC 보다 생산량이 많음 (Pay Nantais 중 1등!)
• DGCs : Chateau Thebaud, Clisson, Gorges, Goulaine, Monnieres Saint Fiacre, Mouzillon Tillieres, Le Pallet

Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC
• smallest Muscadet AOCs
• Ovelap Coteaux d'Ancenis AOC

Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu AOC
• sea breeze -> salinity

Gros Plant du Pays Nantais AOC : Folle Blanche
Coteaux D'Ancenis AOC : Gamay & Pinot Gris (Malvoisie)
Fiefs Vendeens AOC : 5DGCs, ChB, PN, CF, Gamay


<Anjou and Saumur (Middle Loire)>
• Maritime + continental influence
• Largest viticulture area in Loire
• ChB & CF
• Multiplicity of terroir -> wide range of wine

• Anjou : Anger city, Layon valley (sweet wine)
• Saumur : Saumur city

Tuffeau
• Turonian chalk & limestone
• 동굴을 거주지로 사용하기도 함
• Loire 성의 하얀 벽

Two geological worlds of Anjou
• Massif Armoricain + Paris Basin
• West : Black Anjou - dark schist, sandstone
• East : White Anjou - tuffeau, white chalk

Samur : tuffeau -> good acidity

Grape Varieties
• Chenin Blanc : Dry, sweet, sparkling
• Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Orbois

• Grolleau Gris : rose & sparkling
• Sauvignon Gris : white wine of Haut-Poitou

• Cabernet Franc : Red, rose, sparkling
• Grolleau Noir : Rose d'Anjou (off-dry) 블랜드의 중심
• CS, Gamay, Merlot, Pineau d'Anuis, PN, Cot

• Rose : about 50% (Semi sweet : Cabernet d'Anjou, Rose d'Anjou / Dry : Rose de Loire)
• Red : 20%, CF + (CS)
• Sparkling : Samur & Anjou appellation 'mousseux' or Cremant de Loire

Anjou/Layon Appellation
Cabernet d'Anjou 60% / Rose d'Anjou 19% / Anjou 11% / Coteaux du Layon 7%

**General**

Anjou AOC
• Red > White (x2)
• Red : CF, CS + (Grolleau, Pineau d'Aunis)
• Vin Primeur : Gamay, 11월 셋째주 목요일
• White : ChB + (ChD, SB)
• Mousseux : ChB (Rose : red & gris grape)
• Rose still wine은 생산안함

Anjou Village AOC
• 100% Red
• CF & CS
• 46 villages (not on label)

Anjou Brissac AOC
• 100% Red
• Forest shelter로 인해 다른지역보다 따뜻하고 건조함
• Coteaux de L'Aubance랑 겹침

**Rose**
Anjou AOC와 지리적 생산제한 같음
• Off dry rose
• 주로 direct press - onion skin color

Cabernet d'Anjou AOC
• CF & CS
• Min Sweetness : 1% (10g/L)

Rose d'Anjou AOC
• Grolleau Gris
• Min Sweetness : 0.7% (7g/L)
• No dominant production method


**Layon River**
• Sweet Chenin Blanc
• Loire only 1er cru & Grand cru

Coteaux du Layon AOC
• Min Sweetness : 3.4% (34g/L) / 1er cru - 8%(80g/L)
• SGN : noble rot & potential alc 19%
• Chaptalization is not allowed

Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru AOC
• Min Sweetness : 8.5% (85g/L)
• Soil : schist and sandstone
• Passerillage

Bonnezeaux AOC
• Min Sweetness : 5.1% (51g/L)
• Quarts de Chaume GC 보다 산도가 좋음

**Other sweet Chenin Blanc**
Anjou-Coteaux de la Loire AOC
• Min Sweetness : 3.4% (34g/L)
• Flank Loire river
• Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire ~ Savennieres

Coteaux de l'Aubance AOC
• Min Sweetness : 3.4% (34g/L)
• Flank Aubance river
• similar to Coteaux du Layon AOC
• SGN 가능


**Savennieres & etc**

Savennieres AOC
• South facing hill
• Loire's right bank
• 주로 Dry하지만 semi-sweet or sweet 할 수 있다

Savennieres Roche aux Moines AOC
• Monk's rock = Roche aux Moines
• lower yield
• >2 pass harvest
• No chaptalization
• sweet wine 만들기도 함

Coulee de Serrant AOC
• Monopole AOC by Joly family
• Biodynamic
• Dry & sweet wine allowed but... Dry Only


Saumur Appellation
• Single largest producer of Sparkling in Loire
• Samur AOC 59% / Samur Champigny 37% / Haut Poitou AOC 4%

Saumur AOC
• White : 100% ChB
• Red : CF main
• Rose : CF + CS
• Mousseux : ChB (9m sur lie)

Samur-Champigny AOC
• Red only!!
• Tuffeau soil : 섬세하고 부드럽고 신선하게 해줌
• CF main

Coteaux de Samur AOC : Samur 내 지역 ChB 100%
Haut Poitou AOC : Sauvignon Blanc & Gris / CF

cf) Rose AOC
• Rose d'Anjou AOC
• Cabernet d'Anjou AOC
• Rose de Loire AOC

cf) Sparkling AOC = Fine bulles
• Saumur AOC
• Anjou AOC
• Cremant de Loire AOC



<Touraine (Middle Loire)>
4 Soils
• Tuffeau
• Clay and limestone (aubuis) : on hillside
• Sdeimentary deposit (sand & gravel)
• Flinty clay (argiles a silex or perruches)

Grape Varieties
• Chenin Blanc : primary
• Sauvignon Blanc : primary
• Romorantin : Cour-Cheverny
• Arbois & Chardonnay

• Grolleau Gris, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Gris

• Cabernet Franc : primary
• Cot : primary
• Gamay : primary

• Red : 절반이상
• White : 27%
• Sparkling : 17%
• Rose : 5%


Touraine Appellation
Touraine AOc 39% / Vouvray AOC 22% / Chinon AOC 13%

Touraine AOC
• Tuffeau, perruches, aubuis
• White : Sauvignon Blanc (60% of Touraine AOC)
• Mousseux : White - ChB / Rose - CF, Gamay, Grollea
• Red : Tour 동쪽은 Cot, 서쪽은 CF / Gamay도 식재함 (primeur)

Touraine Noble Joue AOC
Rose only!!
• Vin gris from 3 noble grape (Meunier, PN, PG)
• Meunier : backbone & body / PG : fruitiness / PN : roundness & length

**Western Touraine**
• CF : Chinon, Bourgueil, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil
• 10%까지 CS blending 가능

Bourgueil AOC
• CF + (CS)
• Gravel wine : Raspberry
• Tuffeau wine : Structure, complex, spiced plum

Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil AOC
• west of Bourgueil
• Gravel wine : supple tannin, generous fruit

Chinon AOC
• flank Vienne river
• Loire largest Red appellation
• Tuffeau soil
• Touraine 에서 가장 따뜻한 곳


**Dry white & Sparkling**
• Chenin Blanc

Vouvray AOC
• Chenin Blanc
• Soil : aubuis & perruches
• White : Chenin Blanc, 다양한 스타일
• Sparkling : mousseux, petillant -> methode traditinnelle (12mo sur lie), 60% production

Montlouis sur Loire AOC
• Cher과 Loire 사이에 위치
• Soil : aubuis & perruches
• Petillant originel (2017~) : No sugar, No yeast, No dosage / 9 mo sur lie


**East Touraine**
• 주로 Loire의 left bank에 위치
• 다양한 포도품종

Valencay AOC
• SB SG, Cot, PN, Gamay / W, Rs, R
• left bank of Cher river
• Soil : Perruches, sandy gravel
• Red & Rose : Gamay
• White : Sauvignon Blanc

Cheverny AOC
• SB, SG, PN / W, Rs, R (=Rueilly)
• 나무들이 찬바람을 막아줌 -> Touraine에서 가장 따뜻
• 32% Terra vitis
• Loire의 left bank
• Wooded area 사이에 흩어져있다. 다른 Touraine의 지역보다 약간 더 따뜻함

Cour Cheverny AOC
• Romorantin / W~Sw
• 대체로 dry white
• Loire의 left bank

Orleans AOC
• ChD, M / W, Rs, R
• 주로 left bank
• Soil : sandy, pebbly alluvium
• White : 대부분 ChD, Pinot Grist
• Red & Rose : 대부분 Meunier로 부터

Orleans-Clery AOC
• Red only!!
• CF 100%


**Loir River (not Loire)**
• Chenin Blanc & Pineau d'Aunis (only for 2 AOCs)

Coteaux du Vendomois AOC : ChB & PdA
Coteaux du Loir AOC : ChB & PdA
Jasnieres AOC : ChB only


<Middle Loire>

Cremant de Loire AOC
• White : ChB
• Rose : ChB, CF, ChD
• A-S & Touraine 포함

Rose de Loire AOC
• Grolleau, CF, CS, Pineau d'Aunis, PN...
• No Blending formula
• A-S & Touraine 포함

cf) 4 Sparkling AOC
Tourain AOC : 전통방식, 9mo lees aging
Vouvray AOC : 60%는 sparkling 만든다
Cremant de Loire AOC : 전통방식, 9mo lees aging
Montlouis sur Loire AOC : 전통방식, 9mo lees aging

+ Pet Nat & Fine bulles

<Centre Loire>
• Continental climated

4 main soil types
• Limestone (Caillottes) : Pebble of limestone-rich Portlandian marl
• Clay and limestone (terres blanches) : Kimmeridgean marl rich in oyster fossil
• Flint (silex) & Clay with Flint (argiles a silex)
• Sand & gravel

Grape varieties
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Chasselas : some pocket

• Pinot gris & Sauvignon Gris : only in Rueilly & Quincy

• Pinot noir

Centre-Loire Appellation
Sancerre AOC 54% / Pouilly Fume AOC 25% / Menetou Salon 9%

Sancerre AOC
• SB, PN / W, Rs, R
• Soils : Silex (gunflint), Caillotte (Pefumed wine, Quick mature), Terre Blanches (Powerful & ageable)
• Pouilly-Fume보다 더 고지대에 위치, 더 가파름

Pouilly Fume AOC
• only SB / W only
• Soil : 4종
• Fume : smoked -> gun flint aroma from silex

Pouilly sur Loire AOC
• only Chasselas / W only
• Pouilly Fume와 지역적으로 겹침

Menetou Salon AOC
• SB & PN / W, Rs, R
• sister of Sancerre
• similar terroir and same grape


**Cher river area**
Quincy AOC
• White only
• SB & S.gris
• left bank of Cher (대부분)

Reuilly AOC
• Dry White, Rose, Red
• SB, PG, PN
• non contiguous appellation
• dry mesoclimate -> first harvest in Centre Loire
• Sancerre는 PG허용안함


**Lesser know area**
Coteaux du Giennois : Chablis랑 가까움 / SB & PN (+Gamay)
Chateaumeillant : Red & Rose / Gamay


<Upper Loire>
• Continental climate
• under rain shadow
• mix of sedimentary soil & volcanic element
• Chardonnay & Gamay
• Chaine des Puys : chain of extinct volcanoes

Upper Loire Appellation
Saint Pourcain AOC
Cotes d'Auvergne AOC
Cote Roannaise AOC : red only
Cotes du Forez AOC : red & rose only

FARP (Forez, Auvergne, Roannaise, Pourcain)

<The IGPs>
Val de Loire IGP
• 90% varietal
• 60% white
• 면적상 가장 큰 IGP

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