Wines & Bones : 소비치의 와인 그리고 정형외과 안내서

[French Wine Scholar] 2. 남부 - (5) Rhone 본문

Wine & More/French Wine Scholar (FWS)

[French Wine Scholar] 2. 남부 - (5) Rhone

소비치 2023. 12. 4. 14:54
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Introduction
• Alps의 빙하가 녹아 제네바 호수로 들어가 시작된다
• Lyon에서 Saone가 만나 남쪽으로 주행
• 북쪽의 버터 베이스 퀴진과 남쪽의 올리브유 베이스 퀴진이 만나는 곳
• Massif Central (west) - schist & granite / Alps foothill (east) - sedimentary soil


Business & Market
• Rhone valley is the second largest AOC producer in France (1st Bordeaux)
• Wine industry is number 1 : direct & indirect employment
• Almost half of Rhone production is Cotes du Rhone AOC
• Past decade, Rhone export rise 64% in value / only 9% rise in volume
• Past decade, Rhone red decrease (88%->78%), Rose increase (11%->19%)
• Northern Rhone represent 4% of Rhone total


Viticultural History
• 400BCE : Celtic (Gallic) tribe가 Rhone강에 자리잡음 / Phocaean이 마르세유에 자리잡음 -> 북쪽으로 강을따라 물자를 수송하였으며 그 중 와인도 포함됨
• 121BCE : Roman이 북론에 자리잡음. 경험적으로 평지는 frost pocket임을 알고있음
• 기원전 2세기부터 Middle age가지 론의 와인은 상업적으로 중요함
• 1309~1376 : Papal palace move from Rome to Avignon
• Pope John 22세는 아비뇽 북쪽에 여름별장을 짓기로 함 -> CdP -> 교황청이 철수하고 난 뒤에도 카톨릭 교회가 이 지역을 장악함
• 1600s : Vicariate of Uze (Rhone right bank의 교회소유 행정기관)은 Coste du Rhone 지구에서 만들어지는 와인으로 명성을 얻음
• 1737년 King Louis XV는 사기를 방지하기 위해 Coste du Rhone에 CDR이라는 표기를 하도록 지시하였으나 가짜와인이 멈추지않음
• 19세기 중반 Coste du Rhone은 강 좌안까지 허용해줌 -> 이름이 Les Cotes du Rhone으로 변경
• 1870 필록세라 이후 Mourvedre가 접목이 어려워 사라짐 (현재 4%)
• 1956 winter freeze : 지역의 과일나무와 올리브나무가 전부 죽음, 하지만 포도원은 살아남음
• 1990s : 전세계 와인제조 커뮤니티의 영감이 됨 - 미국 캘리포니아의 'Rhone Rangers', 호주의 Cote-Rotie style wine



Location & Climate
• 북 : Lyon and Beaujolais / 남 : Langeudoc & Provence / 동 : Prealps / 서 : Massif Central

• Rhone Valley : Vienne to Nimes
• N. Rhone : Vienne to Valence
• S. Rhone : Montelimar to Nimes
• Cotes du Rhone : Vienne to Avignon

Northern Rhone
• Continental + Mediterranean influence
• Temperature drops early in the autumn -> Short ripening window

Southern Rhone
• Mediterranean
• Summer warmth is mitigated by the Mistral
• Cold air mass descend from limestone peak

Vine threat : heat & drought



Sub Regions of the Rhone Valley

<Northern Rhone>

Geography, Topography & Soil
• Steep gorge : rift valley system
• subsoils : Granite + topsoils : crystalline mica schist & granite sand
• Croze Hermitage : pocket of galets & clay, loess/molasse
• Hermitage : clay & sand

Grape Variety
• Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne
• Echalas and trellis training system

• Viognier : Aromatic 품종co-ferment with Syrah (help to set color)
• Marsanne : Roussanne과 블랜드, 추출도가 더 높음
• Roussanne : 퍼퓸을 더해줌

• Syrah : reductive nature -> gamey, harnyard notes


Viticulture
• Unterraced vineyard : annual repositioning of pebbles & stones
• 전통적 : Guyot training + Echalas (2-3 stakes)
• 현대적 : Trellising
• 가파른 언덕으로 손수확만 가능


Wine making
White wine
• 대부분 Dry
• Oak 는 잘 쓰지 않음 (Hermitage에서 종종 사용)
• Saint Peray에서는 스파클링을 만들기도 함
• Late harvest (or botrytis) Viognier in Condrieu (rare)
• Vin de Paille in Hermitage (rare)

Red
• Dry, still, vivacious acidity
• Cornas & Hermitage : powerfull
• Saint Joseph & Cote Rotie : elegant
• Beton(concrete), Inox(stainless steel), Demi muids or Foudre(large wood cask)


The Appellations
• All in CdR zone
• Red 81% / White 19%

** Northern section : Viognier related **
Cote Rotie AOC
• Red only (Syrah + Viognier : max 20%)
• = rosted slope
• Co-planted, co-harvest, co-fermented

Condrieu AOC
• White only : Viognier
• Right bank of Rhone
• M to F body, M to L acid
• 과거에는 sweet style이 대부분이고 지금도 드물지만 허용은 됨

Chateau Grillet AOC
• Monopole (Bourgogne 밖에서는 Coulee de Serrant과 함께 유일함)
• 2년이상 오크나 탱크에서 숙성해야함


** 남쪽으로 뻗은 AOCs **
Saint Joseph AOC
• Dry W & R
• Red 86% : Syrah / ~10% Co-ferment with Marsanne & Roussane
• White : Marsanne, Roussanne
• Mature more quickly than other cru

Cornas AOC
• Red only : Syrah
• = Burned earth - 충분히 익어서 Syrah 100% 가능

Saint-Peray AOC
• White only (Dry still, sparkling)
• Marsanne, Roussanne
• 가파른 경사로 약간 더 서늘함
• 스파클링도 만들지만 매우 드물다


** Left bank 의 AOC **
Hermitage / L'Hermitage / Ermitage / L'Ermitage AOC
• Dry W & R & Vin de Paille
• R : Syrah (~15% M & R can be co-fermented)
• W : Marsanne, Roussanne
• one of the olded vinyard

Crozes Hermitage AOC
• Dry W & R
• R : Syrah (~15% M & R can be co-fermented)
• Northern Rhone에서 가장 큼
• Hermitage 보다 더 가벼움


<The Diois>
• Continental climate + alpine influence -> 일교차가 큼

Grape Variety
White : Clairette, Muscat a Petits Grains Blanc, Chardonnay, Alignote
Rose/Gris : Clairette Rose
Red : Gamay, Pinot noir, Syrah, Muscat a Petit Grains Rouge

The Appellations
• Sparkling wine 생산이 주요함
• Ancestral method : Clairette de Die Methode Diosie Ancestrale
• Traditional method : Clairette de Die & Cremant de Die

Clairette de Die AOC
• Clairette de Die : Traditional method / 100% Clairette
• Clairette de Die Methode Diosie Ancestrale : Ancestrale 방식 / Muscat이 대부분 / Sweet sparkling

Cremant de Die AOC
Coteaux de Die AOC
Chatilllon en Diois AOC

<Southern Rhone>

Geography, Topography & Soil
• Broad rocky plains and with rugged topographical relief
• Limestone peaks : Dentelles de Montmirail, Luberon, Ventoux and Les Alpilles
• 5 soil types : galets, garrigue, sandstone, clay, loess/molasse (windblown sediment)

Grape Variety
• Over 30 authorized grape
• Top 6 = 94% : Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Mourvedre, Cinsaut, Grenache Blanc
• Goblet training is traditional

• Bourboulenc : M alc, H acid -> Grenache blanc, Clairette 과 밸런스를 맞춤
• Clairette : 잎이 넓어서 surnburn으로부터 보호
• Grenache Blanc : CdR & CdP의 Primary grape
• Muscat a Petits Grains Blanc : VDNs 양조에

• Grenache : H alc, M pigment, M acid, oxidative nature -> S & M과 블랜딩
• Syrah : H acid, reductive nature
• Mourvedre : Alc, Tan, Acid, Pigment to blend, reductive nature

Viticulture
• Goblet training : protection from Mistral
• Guyot + Trellised : better sun exposure, facilitate pruning, eliminate humidity
• Only Beaumes de Venise AOC : hand harvest by law
• 북론보다 간격이 멀다 (물부족)
• Irrigation은 승인 하 사용가능
• 지구온난화 : 점점 더 고지대 밭을 찾는다, Heat stress로 부터 고생 -> drought & later ripening 을 개발중

Wine making
White wines are mostly Dry & Still
Sweet VDNs (R, W, Rs) are produced
Red wines are GSM blend


The Appellations
• CdR AOC > CdR Village AOC > CdR Village + village name DGC > Crus

Regional
Cotes du Rhone AOC
• Red : GSM
• Montelimar 남쪽 : GSM 중 2개가 60% 이상
• Montelimar 북쪽 : GSM 중 1개가 60% 이상

• White : Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, M & R & V
• Grenache Blanc 위주

• Rose : Cinsaut 위주

Cotes du Rhone Village AOC
• CdR AOC와 비슷하나 더 엄격하다
• 95% Red wine : 2가지 이상 GSM 66%
• CdRV + Village name : yield가 낮고 alc이 더 높다
• S.Rhone 100%

Southern Cru Appellation
• Red : GSM
• White : Grenache blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, M & R
• Rose : Syrah, Cinsaut


** S Rhone의 북동쪽 구역 **
• Dry wine 생산에 집중하는 곳
• Surround hilltop towns

Vinsobres AOC
• Red only
• Grenasche base + S & M
• sands & clay + gravel & limestone

Rasteau AOC
• Red + VDN
• South facing, amphiteater -> trap sunlight & block mistral
• Red : GSM

Cairanne AOC
• Dry R > W
• Red : G based SM
• White : Clairette based + Roussanne, Grenache Blanc


**Foothill of Dentelles de Montmirail **
• Dentelles de Montmirail : sun trap, block wind, cool air mass

Gigondas AOC
• Rose & Red
• 대부분 Red : GSM

Vacqueyras AOC
• Dry White, Red, Rose
• Gigondas 보다 좀 더 따뜻함
• fleshier, meatier red
• Red : GSM
• Rose : G, M, C
• White : any white

Beaumes de Venis AOC
• Red only : GSM> 60% (G는 필수 포함)
• 손수확 필수


** Open Valley floor **
• exposed to Mistral
• CdP : left bank
• Lirac, Tavel : right bank

Chateauneuf du Pape AOC
• Dry White & Red
• Largest S.Rhone cru
• Limestone, sand stone, clay, galet
• Least restictive law
• Red : Powerful, full body, fleshy, generous ripe tannin, sweet and jammy fruit, Kirsch & garrigue aroma
• White : full bodied, hint of garrigue

Lirac AOC
• Dry White & Red & Rose
• hot, sunny, dry / poor soil -> low yield, top quality fruit
• White : M body, soft / Clairette, Bourboulenc, Granache blanc
• Rose : Saignee or Direct press / GSM + C
• Red : GSM + C

Tavel AOC
• Only Rose
• Short maceration only
• Grenache 는 반드시 포함, 어떤 품종도 60%를 넘지않음


** VDN appellation **
Rasteau AOC
• VDN R & W & Rs
• RS > 45g/L

• White VDN (reductive) : Grenache blanc or gris, 1년째 5월에 출시
• White VDN (oxidative - ambre) : Grenache family > 90%, 3년째 5월에 출시

• Red VDN : Grenache Noir > 75% & Grenache family > 90%
• Red VDN grenat : 1년째 5월 출시
• Red VDN tuile : 3년째 5월 출시 (hors d'age : 5년 숙성요함 / rancio : taste of rancio를 달성해야함)

• Rose VDN : >90% Grenache family, no aging requirement

Muscat de Beaumes de Venis AOC
• White 83%, Rose 15%, Red 2%
• RS > 100g/L
• all wine is fresh & reductive style

<Other Rhone Valley AOC>
• Outside of CDR zone : large size, atypical mesoclimate
• 1/4 of Rhone valley production

The Appellation
Ventoux AOC
• R & Rs & W
• All wine : Carignan & Cinsaut
• Outside CdR 7개 AOC중 생산량이 가장 많음
• Red >50%, Rose 36% (대부분 saignee)
• Co-op 이 많음
• UNSCO Biosphere

Luberon
• R & Rs & W
• Ventoux와 Provencal AOC 사이에 존재
• GSM
• Rose > 50% -> provence profile
• Mediterranean + continental influence
• UNSCO Biosphere

Costieres de Nimes AOC
• R & Rs & W
• Right bank of Rhone
• Hot & Dry -> 밤에는 Petite Camargue에서 오는 찬바람으로 식혀짐
• Syrah가 대표품종
• Red & Rose > 90%


** Other non CDR AOC **
Cotes du Vivarais AOC : most northerly of S.Rhone / Jammy black fruit and spices / Le plus septentrionaux des meridionaux
Duche d'Uzes AOC
Grignan les Adhemar AOC
Clairette de Bellegarde AOC

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